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Barbarian days

a surfing life
Pages
707
Published
2015
Language
English

Synopsis

Follow William Finnegan's incredible journey as he recounts a life dedicated to surfing. From his early days in Honolulu to chasing perfect waves in far-flung, exotic locations, this memoir offers a deep dive into the culture and challenges of a lifelong surfer. It's a story of passion, perseverance, and the pursuit of an endless summer across the globe.

About the author

W
William Finnegan

William Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker where he reports on politics, conflict, and social issues. He is the author of the Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir Barbarian Days: